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Our puppy classes offer a rich mix of experiences, mirroring the diverse encounters you and your puppy will face in everyday life.
In these classes, puppies learn to appreciate the variety within their own species. They encounter peers of all sizes and shapes, from the tiny five-pound Maltese with its floppy ears to the majestic 150-pound German Shepherd with pointy ears. This diversity is essential for their development.
By the age of 12 to 16 weeks, it's crucial for puppies to understand the different play styles of their peers. Early exposure, ideally before they're 12 weeks old, is key. In our classes, small breeds learn to recognize larger breeds as fellow canines, and vice versa. The experience is akin to a child’s first day at kindergarten - a mix of excitement and apprehension, with reactions varying widely among both puppies and their owners.
Your puppy might start as a shy observer, choosing the safety of a chair or your lap, and that's perfectly fine. They will join in when they feel ready. Others may dive into play with boundless energy, which can be equally daunting. Puppies, like humans, have unique personalities and develop at their own pace.
During playtime, you'll witness a wide range of behaviors - joyful barks, warning growls, excited yips, cautious whines, playful wrestling, and cautious hiding. These interactions are normal and part of their learning process. If a puppy feels overwhelmed, it might yelp or retreat, but this is just a part of learning to communicate and interact.
You might also observe submissive behaviors like rolling over, or attempts to initiate play that might startle another pup. These are all part of the learning process, helping puppies understand and refine their social skills.
These classes are a continuation of the social learning that began in their litter. Puppies learn to 'be a dog' through these interactions. As an owner, you'll gain insights into canine communication and behavior, understanding what is normal and necessary.
Given the diverse range of dog breeds, each bred for specific tasks, some innate behaviors may seem exaggerated during play. This highlights the importance of understanding your puppy's unique temperament and breed characteristics, which you'll learn by observing and engaging in our classes.
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At SmartyPup!, we align with the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior guidelines. Puppies can start socialization classes as early as 8 weeks of age, provided they've received at least one set of vaccines and a deworming treatment 7 days prior to the first class, and are kept up-to-date on vaccines throughout the course.
Key Points:
1. Initial Vaccinations: Your puppy doesn’t need the complete set of vaccinations to start. The crucial requirement is the first set of vaccinations, including Distemper and Parvovirus (D and P), and Bordetella, administered at least 7 days before the first class.
2. Varying Veterinary Opinions: Each veterinarian may have different recommendations on the timing and number of vaccines. We encourage you to ask questions and stay informed.
3. American Veterinary Society Applied SAB Position Statement: If advised to wait until all vaccinations are complete, we suggest sharing the AVSAB Puppy Position Statement with your vet. This document explains the updated protocols and can be downloaded from the AVSAB website.
4. Importance of Early Socialization: The first three months are critical for puppy socialization. Exposure to new environments and stimuli during this period is essential for preventing behavioral problems later in life. The risk of infection is relatively low with proper care and vaccinations.
5. Recommendations for Early Enrollment: Enrolling in puppy classes before three months of age is highly recommended. It aids in training, strengthens the human-animal bond, and provides a safe environment for socialization.
For more insights, refer to the Roundtable Discussion on the Risks and Benefits of Early Socialization for Puppies and the AAHA Canine Vaccination Guidelines.
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As you have already experienced, EVERYONE you meet is an expert when it comes to YOUR puppy.
Your vet can help you with health issues and give medical advice; a qualified trainer/behavior consultant can answer your behavior and training questions; and the pet store owner/staff can tell you how much something is and if it is popular or not. Try not to ask questions out of the persons wheelhouse.
Don’t take medical or behavior advice from the pet store or the public. If you think your puppy is not feeling well, call your veterinarian before coming to class to discuss your concerns and your pup’s symptoms. Follow your veterinarian’s advice. If you think your puppy is sick, please do not bring them to class. Y
You are welcome to come to class without your pup and observe the lessons. -
Your puppy's development is multifaceted, encompassing physical health 💉, vaccinations, and crucially, their developmental health through proper socialization. 🤗 Our well-run puppy classes are a proactive choice for the behavioral health of your puppy, laying the groundwork for a happy, balanced dog. 🐾
It's particularly important to note that some lines of breeds, like Rottweilers, Chocolate Labs, and English Bulldogs, Frenchie’s Pugs, some terriers, etc… have sensitive immune systems. 🛡️ This factor is significant in their health and socialization approach. Breeds and breed mixes with hard wired working behaviors, should begin socialization as soon as they arrive home. The period from 3 to 12 weeks is critical in a dog's life. What the breeder did and didn't do, and what you do and don't do during this time, is pivotal for their future behavior and health. 🌱
However, it's also vital to understand that, just like children in preschool, there is no guarantee that your puppy will not get sick when interacting with others at SmartyPup! or to a trip to the veterinarian, or when they meet a friend who has dogs at home, from you after a trip to the pet store, etc. 🏥 Developing a robust immune system often involves exposure to various environments. Avoiding socialization for fear of illness would be similar to creating a 'bubble baby' scenario, which is not advisable for healthy development. The same applies to puppies. 🤔
The risk of behavioral problems in unsocialized dogs, potentially leading to relinquishment or euthanasia, far exceeds the risk of contracting infectious diseases in a controlled environment like our classes. We're committed to providing a safe and controlled setting where your puppy can learn, play, and grow, maintaining high standards of cleanliness and safety to minimize health risks. 🛡️
Socialization involves positive exposure to diverse people, dogs, and situations, building confidence and preventing fear and aggression issues. Our programs offer your puppy the opportunity to learn appropriate interactions with other dogs and people, an invaluable skill for their overall well-being. 🧡
In conclusion, while physical health is essential, the importance of social and developmental health is equally significant. Our classes at SmartyPup! are designed to address both aspects, ensuring your puppy's growth into a well-rounded, healthy, and happy dog. 🐶🌟
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We LOVE small puppies, and we understand the fear and reservations you have concerning bigger puppies. Carefully exposing your small pup to larger pups is a necessary part of training. For safety reasons, your little guy needs to learn how to act around the bigger guys. For example, if you run, you WILL get chased! Don't run and you won’t get chased. Let's face it: it's a big-dog world out there, and a big-dog encounter is eventually going to happen. We will guide you throughout this delicate but oh-so-important process. We've done it zillions of times with great success!
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Oh, no! Then you need to get to a social or class right away. It's natural to want to safeguard our shy puppies from what scares them, but shyness may later develop into behavior problems like fear, aggression, attachment disorders, submissive urination, and the inability to cope in stressful situations. Reserved pups are often the reason for an unhappy adult dog later on. Your pup is still young and impressionable, which means there is a lot we can do. But YOU must begin right away. Shy puppies need careful, gentle socialization with people, dogs, and "things." We can help you through this sensitive, slow, and sometimes very scary process. A confident dog is a content dog.
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The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) released a position statement in 2005 outlining the importance of early puppy socialization, preferably before the puppy reaches 12 weeks old. The AVSAB encourages owners to take their pets to puppy classes and socials as early as possible, even before puppies have completed their full vaccination series.
Some veterinarians remain concerned about allowing puppies to co-mingle before vaccinations are complete. To further explore the practical and theoretical issues involved, the AVSAB has interviewed four veterinarians who have extensive experience with early puppy socialization. The participants' individual interviews are presented below in a round-table format.
Unlock Your Puppy's Potential: The Science of Early Socialization
At SmartyPup!, our socialization classes are not just about fun and games – they're a science-backed investment in your puppy's future. Drawing from the expertise of leading veterinarians, we've crafted a program that emphasizes the critical importance of early socialization, as outlined by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB).
The Expert Consensus
Dr. Brenda Griffin, an advocate for behavioral wellness, states that the most crucial aspect of a puppy’s behavioral development is proper socialization during their critical developmental period, which ends by 16 weeks. Beginning socialization from the day you bring your puppy home is not just recommended; it's imperative for their future well-being.
Balancing Risks with Behavioral Benefits
Dr. Ian Dunbar, a renowned behaviorist, assures that the risks associated with attending early puppy classes are minimal, while the benefits are immense. In a structured class setting, puppies learn bite inhibition and proper interaction with people and their canine peers.
Dr. Kersti Seksel reinforces this, highlighting that well-run puppy classes lay the groundwork for happy, balanced dogs. The risk of behavioral problems in unsocialized dogs, which can lead to relinquishment or euthanasia, far exceeds the risk of contracting infectious diseases in a controlled environment like our classes.
A Safe Environment for Learning
Our classes are designed with health protocols that align with veterinary guidance to minimize risks. Dr. Jennifer Messer notes the relative safety and low incidence of disease transmission in puppy socialization classes, affirming that the controlled exposure to a treatable infection is a small price to pay for the substantial benefits gained.
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Refund Policy
Welcome to SmartyPup! We're thrilled you're considering joining our classes. Before enrolling, we kindly ask you to review your schedule, the specific class you wish to join, and your puppy's suitability for the chosen class. Our goal is to ensure the best fit for both you and your furry friend!
Refunds Before Class Commencement:
- Refunds are available prior to the start of the first class, subject to a processing fee of $35.00. To process a refund, we need to fill your spot in the class and require a notice period of at least 3 days to do so.No Refunds After Class Commences:
- Please note, once a class has started, we are unable to offer refunds. We carefully plan our courses and resources based on enrollment, and this policy helps us maintain the highest quality experience for all our pups and their parents.Life Happens - We Understand:
- We know life can be unpredictable. If an unexpected circumstance prevents you from attending one or more classes, please let us know. While we can't guarantee a spot in a future course, we'll do our best to accommodate you if space is available. Class availability for such situations is determined on the first day of the upcoming course.Audit a Class:
-We highly encourage you to audit a class before signing up. This gives you a chance to experience our teaching style and see if it's the right fit for you and your puppy. Feel free to contact us to arrange thisAttendance
- If you're unable to attend a class, don't worry! Life happens, and we've got you covered with homework to keep you and your puppy on track. Please attend the class without your puppy to observe and learn.- Health First: If your puppy isn't feeling well, please consult your veterinarian and follow their advice. For the health and safety of all our furry students, please do not bring a sick puppy to class. However, you're more than welcome to attend the class without your puppy to observe and learn.
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We're here to support you and your puppy's learning journey. If you have any questions or need further clarification on our policies, please don't hesitate to reach out to us. Thank you for choosing SmartyPup! -
Ever wondered what happens in a puppy class? It's all about...
If you've been advised to wait until your pup has all their shots before socializing, it's important to know that this advice might be outdated. According to the American Society of Veterinary Behaviorists (AVSAB), puppies can begin socialization classes as early as 7-8 weeks of age. They should have at least one set of vaccines and a deworming treatment at least 7 days before attending their first class. Keeping up-to-date with vaccinations is also crucial throughout the class duration. Therefore, we require only the first round of Distemper and Parvo vaccines, along with a deworming treatment for participation in our puppy socials.
Puppy socials are an excellent opportunity for your young canine to interact with different people, various environments, and other puppies. At SmartyPup!, we prioritize the safety and well-being of all our furry attendees. We ensure that our environment is clean and secure, allowing your puppy to play, learn, and explore with confidence and safety.
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What if I think my puppy is sick?
If you think your puppy is not feeling well, call your veterinarian right away to discuss your concerns and your pup's symptoms. Follow your veterinarian’s advice. If you think your puppy is sick, please do not bring them to class. You are welcome to come to class without your pup and observe the lessons. Keep us apprised of your pup’s well being at all times. We need a written record from the vet clearing your pup to return in order to let them back in. Even if pups have no symptoms they may still be contagious, so an all-clear from the vet is crucial.
What is parvovirus?
Parvovirus is a viral disease of dogs. It affects puppies much more frequently than it affects adult dogs. The virus grows in rapidly dividing cells, and the intestinal lining has the biggest concentration of rapidly dividing cells in a puppy's body. The virus attacks and kills these cells, causing diarrhea (often bloody) and the depression and suppression of white blood cells, which come from another group of rapidly dividing cells. In very young puppies, it can infect the heart muscle and lead to "sudden" death.
What is kennel cough?
Bursts of harsh, dry coughing, which may be followed by retching and gagging. The cough is easily induced by gentle palpation of the larynx or trachea. Affected dogs demonstrate few if any additional clinical signs except for partial anorexia. Development of more severe signs, including fever, purulent nasal discharge, depression, loss of appetite, and a productive cough indicates a complicating systemic infection such as bronchopneumonia, especially in puppies.
Causes of diarrhea in puppies?
Diarrhea is a common problem in puppies and can range from a single mild episode to a severe symptom of a serious underlying condition. There are a number of causes of diarrhea in very young dogs including stress, change in diet, ingestion of a foreign object, parasites, and viral infection. It's important to keep a close eye on a puppy with diarrhea.
Parvovirus Vaccination
Parvovirus is probably the most common viral illness in dogs. It can be very hard to successfully vaccinate a puppy for this disease because the antibody protection the puppy acquires from its mother can interfere with vaccination. Many vets recommend vaccinating puppies every three to four weeks for this virus starting at six weeks of age and continuing until they are at least 16 weeks of age and preferably 20 weeks of age. It is possible that this vaccine confers lifelong immunity once it does work, but most veterinarians continue to recommend yearly vaccination for it. It seems prudent to at least get the vaccination at one year of age. Since it is combined with the other vaccines, it is often easier just to give it yearly with them.
What are the symptoms of parvo?
Parvovirus attacks the lining of the digestive system. Infected dogs and puppies lose the ability to absorb nutrients or liquids. Puppies are especially prone to it because they have an immature immune system. When dogs and puppies contract parvo, they often have diarrhea, vomiting and lethargy. They typically stop eating and develop a bloody, foul-smelling, liquid stool. Symptoms usually begin with a high fever, lethargy, depression, and loss of appetite. Secondary symptoms appear as severe gastrointestinal distress, such as vomiting and bloody diarrhea. In many cases, dehydration, shock, and death follow. Parvovirus is characterized by severe, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, high fever and lethargy. The diarrhea is particularly foul-smelling and is sometimes yellow in color. Parvo can also attack a dog's heart, causing congestive heart failure. This complication can occur months or years after an apparent recovery from the intestinal form of the disease. Puppies who survive parvo usually remain somewhat unhealthy and weak for life.
How is parvo transmitted?
Canine parvovirus is carried by dogs. Adult dogs may be infected carriers without showing any clinical signs. Dogs can also shed the virus through diarrhea. It can last a long time in the environment, perhaps as long as nine months or even longer. Generally, it takes seven to 10 days from the time of exposure for dogs and puppies to start showing symptoms and to test positive for parvo. Parvo is highly contagious to unprotected dogs, and the virus can remain infectious in ground contaminated with fecal material for five months or more if conditions are favorable. Most disinfectants cannot kill the virus, though chlorine bleach is the most effective and inexpensive agent that works and is often used by veterinarians. Given the hardiness of the virus, the ease with which infection with parvo can occur in any unvaccinated dog must be stressed. Parvo can be brought home to your dog on shoes, hands, and even car tires. Any areas that are thought to be contaminated with parvo should be thoroughly washed with chlorine bleach diluted 1 ounce per quart with water.
If you think you may have come in contact with parvovirus, wash your shoes, clothes, and even your hands with a strong solution of bleach and water to reduce the risk of infecting your dog. Rest assured that parvovirus is specific to dogs alone and cannot be transmitted to humans or other pets of a different species.
Can you kill the parvo in the environment?
Parvo cannot be killed by regular hand sanitizers and Lysol. Very few disinfectants will kill parvo. Diluted bleach will.
A bleach dilution that is strong enough to kill parvo will ruin carpets, wood flooring, furniture and other fabrics. Using it on other pets in the house will harm them.
Even if the puppy infected with parvo never left your home, you did. It can be passed on the bottoms of your shoes.
How is Parvo treated?
Without intense treatment, victims of parvo die of dehydration. Treatment generally consists of IV or sub-cutaneous fluids and antibiotics. There is no cure. Veterinarians can only treat the symptoms palliatively and try to keep the dog alive by preventing dehydration and loss of proteins. Treatment for parvo mostly entails supporting the different systems in the body during the course of the disease. This includes giving fluids, regulating electrolyte levels, controlling body temperature, and giving blood transfusions when necessary.
Dogs who have survived parvo can get it again. A puppy that tests negative for parvo one day could succumb to the virus within a matter of days. Dr. Cathy Priddle has warned that sulfa drugs have been known to cause dehydration in dogs, suggesting that animals infected with parvovirus should not be given sulfa drugs.
Will my dog die if they get parvo?
This is a very serious disease. While no extremely accurate statistics are available, a good guess is probably that 80% of puppies treated for parvovirus will live. Without treatment, the reverse would probably be true—that 80% or more of the infected puppies would die.
If your dog makes it through the first three to four days, he will usually make a rapid recovery, and be back on his feet within a week. It is vital, however, that he receives supportive therapy immediately. It must be stressed that this is not a bad case of doggy flu; without medical treatment, most puppies die.
Due to the high death rate, parvovirus gets a lot of free publicity. Many people assume that any case of diarrhea in a dog is from parvovirus. This is not true. There are a lot of other diseases and disorders that lead to diarrhea. But if you have a puppy, don't take any chances. Have your puppy examined by your vet if diarrhea is a factor in any disease. It is better to be safe than to be sorry
Are some breeds more susceptible than others?
For some reason, Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, and other black and tan breeds are especially prone to parvo and seem to succumb faster and with less chance of recovery than any other breed. If you have one of these breeds, it's even more important to make certain they get immunized properly. But parvo affects all breeds, so if you think your puppy is not feeling well, call your veterinarian before coming to class to discuss your concerns and your pup’s symptoms. Follow your veterinarian’s advice. If you think your puppy is sick, please do not bring them to class. You are welcome to come to class without your pup and observe the lessons.
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At SmartyPup!, we utilize the principles of Applied Animal Learning Theory to guide our training methods. This involves a deep understanding of how puppies learn and adapt based on their environment and experiences. Our methods include:
1. Classical Conditioning:Teaching dogs to form positive associations between stimuli, such as associating a clicker with a treat.
2. Operant Conditioning: Using positive reinforcement to encourage good behavior, and negative punishment to reduce unwanted behavior.
3. Shaping: Breaking down complex behaviors into smaller, manageable steps and reinforcing each step.
4. Extinction: Reducing unwanted behaviors by no longer reinforcing them. FYI ‘Ignore”. The behacior will get worse before it gets batter.
5. Generalization and Discrimination: Helping puppies apply learned behaviors in different situations and respond to different cues.
6. Habituation and Sensitization: Exposing puppies to various stimuli in a controlled manner to ensure they become comfortable and well-adjusted.
7. Motivation: Tailoring training to what individually motivates each puppy, such as food, toys, or praise.
Our approach is comprehensive and humane, focusing on the individual needs and learning styles of each puppy. Most of all its fun!
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Our Cleaning Procedures and Protocols.
At Smarty Pup, we prioritize the health and safety of our furry clients and their owners. Our comprehensive cleaning protocols are designed to ensure a hygienic and safe environment for everyone. Here’s how we maintain our high standards of cleanliness:
1. Daily Floor Cleaning: We thoroughly sweep and mop our floors daily. In case of spills or accidents, we promptly use enzyme sprays that effectively neutralize odors and break down organic matter.
2. Disinfecting with 'Rescue: We use 'Rescue' disinfectant, known for its effectiveness against various pathogens, for cleaning floors, kennels, crates, and high-touch areas. This ensures a germ-free environment for both puppies and people.
3. Air Quality Control: To maintain fresh and healthy air quality, we use air purifiers and ensure adequate ventilation by keeping windows open as much as possible.
4. Regular Equipment Sanitization: All training equipment, play accessories, and feeding bowls are regularly sanitized to prevent the spread of germs.
5. End-of-Day Clean-Up: Our team performs a thorough cleaning at the end of each day, including emptying trash bins and ensuring all areas are spotless and sanitized.
We are dedicated to providing a clean, safe, and welcoming space for your dog's training and well-being. If you have any specific questions or concerns about our cleaning procedures, please feel free to reach out to us.
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What do I need to bring for Puppy 1 class?
A flat collar and a six-foot flat leash. Please, please, please, please—no flexi leashes. We've seen many unfortunate accidents. Even scarier, look at the many warnings on the handle of the lead. Finger amputation and strangulation are just a few.
A hungry puppy. Your pup might be nervous or might run around. All that fun and all that running is a sure way for a puppy with a full belly to throw up! Instead, bring your pup’s meal to class and feed them in class. Of course, an afternoon snack is A-OK in the meantime!
A mat or towel for your puppy to settle down on.
Poop bags, just in case the inevitable happens.
Proof of vaccination, if we have not already seen it.
Please bring a stuffed Kong or chew toy to class. Think of it as a pacifier. Puppies are not capable of sitting still while humans talk. In fact, puppies are not capable of sitting still at all! We strongly recommend you purchase a puppy pouch for when you’re out and about with your pup. In it should be a few chew sticks, a stuffed Kong, some treats, plastic bags, and a small blanket.
A bait bag for your training treats.
In addition to the kibble, bring NOVEL, soft treats to class—preferably treats that your puppy hasn’t had for at least a week. Novelty is all-important when training a puppy with rewards. If you forget, no worries. We have wholesome healthy treats in class and ask only that you add to the treat fund. A dollar or two is more than enough! You can also bring treats to add to the treat fund.
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What happens if a puppy has an accident in your facility?
At Smarty Pup, we understand that accidents are a natural part of the puppy training process. Our approach to handling these little mishaps is prompt and caring, ensuring minimal disruption to the fun and learning experience. Here's what we do:
Immediate Action: As soon as a puppy has an accident, we pause our activities. This allows us to address the situation quickly and effectively.
Clean-Up Process: We clean the area thoroughly using enzyme sprays that are specially designed to break down and neutralize odors and bacteria. This ensures that our facility remains hygienic and safe for all our furry friends and their trainers.
Resuming Activities: Once the area is clean and dry, we resume our fun and educational activities. We understand that puppies are still learning, and we handle these situations with patience and positivity.
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Yes, yes, yes!!! We love kids, and we want puppies to love kids too!
We encourage family members who will be participating in training your dog to attend class. An integral part of the socialization/training process is exposing your puppy to children (and vice versa) in a positive way. Therefore, having children in class can be very, very good for all of the puppies. However, small children require special consideration in a class situation. There are times when the child will have to sit quietly in class. If you think your child may have a hard time sitting still, be sure to bring something for your child to do while sitting still. Just like their puppy counterpart, the attention span of a young child can be short, and we want everyone to be able to fully concentrate on the class.cription
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If you suspect your puppy isn't feeling their best, the first thing to do is pick up the phone and call your vet. Share your concerns and your puppy's symptoms with them, and closely follow the advice they give. It's always better to be safe and sure when it comes to health, right?
Now, if you're pretty certain your puppy is under the weather, it's best to leave them at home – we don't want any sick puppies at class. However, that doesn't mean you have to miss out! Feel free to come by yourself and observe the class. You can pick up some tips and tricks to practice at home once your pup is back to their bouncy self.We also need to keep track of your pup's health. So, if your vet gives your puppy the green light to rejoin the class, just bring us a little note from them. This helps us ensure that all our furry students are healthy and ready to learn. Remember, even if your puppy seems fine, they could still be contagious, and we want to keep all our little learners safe and sound.
In a nutshell, if your pup's not well, a quick check with the vet and a note for us when they're ready to come back is the way to go. We're all about making sure every puppy in our class is healthy, happy, and ready for fun and learning! What should I do if I think my puppy is sick and how do I manage their attendance at puppy class?
Please think seriously about your schedule, the class you are signing up for, commitment to training, and your dog's suitability for class before enrolling in our classes.
Refunds are issued prior to class (minus a $35.00 processing fee) if, and only if, we can fill your place in class and have ample time (minimum of 3 business days) to do so.
We do not refund classes, socials or other scheduled events once a class has started and/or three business days before a class starts. Class credits will be considered in special circumstances.
We do not refund fees and tuitions once class has commenced.
If something unexpected makes it impossible for you to continue with class, we will do our best to accommodate you in an upcoming class, space permitting (usually not ascertained until the day that class begins).
You are more than welcome to come an audit the class before you sign up. In fact, we encourage you to do so! Please reach out to us to schedule an appointment so your trainers know you’re coming.cription -
Rewards are not just food treats. In fact, for some dogs, other things such as toys or play with another dog are far more rewarding than food. The things that dogs value can be food, play, attention, or access to a desired place. These are all important, and the appropriate reward should be delivered to your pup when they do something right. Sometimes treats may be the most important thing to your dog. Sometimes it might be play, attention (eye contact, petting, praise), or the opportunity to go somewhere (like jumping into the creek).
But for many dogs, the fastest way to their brain is through their stomach, so food treats are often an effective way to reward behaviors as they are being taught. The use of very small, tasty food treats means that rewards can be delivered quickly and repetitiously. However, food should never be the ONLY reward used. Once a dog has learned a behavior, food should be faded out, and other rewards should be substituted.
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Let’s first take a look at dogs’ learning style. Since we don’t share a verbal language with dogs, dogs learn through association. Humans in their pre-language months also learn this way. Simply put, learning by association means that the dog takes in the environmental set-up when learning a new behavior or experiencing a specific event. Aversive training is based on “correcting” (punishing) a mistake to eliminate the behavior.
Here is a simple scenario: An owner/trainer is walking with the dog, doing “heeling” work. The dog—who is probably wearing a choke-chain, slip lead, or electronic collar—is walking along quite well. A woman and small child walk toward them. The dog sees them and, because he is friendly, he moves a bit forward from heel position. The owner/trainer immediately gives a correction (a collar pop or shock) to let the dog know he strayed from position. In this scenario, the dog is focused on the woman and child and is also enjoying a walk. The association he makes when the owner/trainer gives the painful correction is twofold: (1) that walking is sometimes less than fun and (2) that a woman and child in the vicinity means something bad will happen. That’s associative learning; the dog now learns that something in his environment that he found pleasant is meant to be feared.
That’s how dogs develop reactive behaviors out of the blue. The owner/trainer thought with the human mind, but the dog learned with a canine mind: through association. A study in Germany measured the cortisol (a stress hormone) levels in dogs trained with an electronic collar. They received a shock for a mistake while in a room. When they re-entered the room a month later, the dog’s cortisol levels shot up to 300%. One month later and after just a single shock, the dog still associated the room with a painful experience.
In contrast, positive-reinforcement training creates motivation for the dog to perform the behavior that the trainer wants. The dog and the trainer are both enjoying the learning experience, and the dog is actually taking part in the process. Aversive training seems to work fast; the problem is that you often train an association quite different from the one you intended.
Training with positive reinforcement can seem slow by comparison. When you use aversive training, however, fallout continues to bring new and unwelcome behaviors that you will then need to address—a process that can take a very long time and that may not work at all with aversive methods. Because aversive training methods work through fear, they train the dog to fear something. Not only are you likely to teach your pup to fear the wrong things, you are increasing his overall fearfulness and stress. Fear and stress lead to growls, barks, bared teeth, and lunges. That’s fallout, and the risk is too great to make aversive methods worthwhile.
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Welcoming a puppy into your life? Here’s a golden tip: consider subscribing to The Whole Dog Journal. It’s our go-to resource for the latest, most reliable info on puppy and dog care, food, and training. Think of it as your puppy encyclopedia!
Training Your Puppy
Training a puppy is a journey filled with joy and discoveries. Remember, there's no malice in their mischief, just pure, unbridled curiosity. Embrace their 'puppy-ness' and gently guide them through the quirks of our human world. Whether it's learning to 'come' when they'd rather chase a butterfly, understanding 'no jumping' despite it being a natural greeting among dogs, or resisting the temptation of a day-old salami slice, your patience and guidance are what they need. After all, they're just babies trying to make sense of everything around them. Cherish these moments of pure puppyhood!
Whole Dog Journal
We can't recommend The Whole Dog Journal enough. It's the ultimate handbook for natural dog food, care, and training. They don’t run ads, which means their advice is unbiased and genuine. For any new puppy owner, it's an invaluable resource.
The Essentials
1. Alone Time Training: Learning to be calm and content when alone is crucial.
2. Potty Training: We'll share the steps to make this as smooth as possible.
3. Puppy Management: Keeping your little explorer safe and out of trouble is key.
Crate, Kennel, and Exercise Pen:]
Your puppy’s own little den should be just big enough for them to stand and turn around comfortably. These spaces are not just for housebreaking, but also safe havens for traveling and resting. Make it cozy with a washable mat or blankets, and remember, some pups prefer cooler surfaces.
Foldable Wire Pens: Great for giving your puppy a bit more room while keeping them contained, especially when a crate isn't suitable. Avoid cloth pens as puppies might chew through them.
Stain and Odor Remover:
Accidents happen, but they don't have to leave a mark. Products like Bubba, Nature's Miracle, and Anti-Icky Poo work wonders. They use enzymes to break down odor-causing bacteria, making sure your pup doesn’t revisit the scene of the accident.
Chews & Toys:
Puppies explore the world with their mouths, so it's important to keep them engaged. Offer a variety of chews and toys to satisfy their curiosity and save your shoes! Avoid rawhides and smoked bones due to choking hazards and harmful chemicals. Instead, consider bully sticks, beef tendons, or raw marrow bones. For toys, think about durable rubber for active chewers and softer toys for gentler pups. Fun fact: Puppies that chew on raw bones often have the cleanest teeth!
Treats:
Treats are like puppy gold – great for training and rewarding. Choose healthy, additive-free options and keep them varied to maintain interest. Remember, the goal is to gradually reduce reliance on food rewards.
Leash, Collar, and ID Tag:
Opt for thin, 6-foot nylon or leather leashes. Avoid flexi-leashes as they can be dangerous and teach poor walking habits. Adjustable collars are great for growing pups, and harnesses are recommended for smaller breeds or those prone to pulling.
Puppy Pouch:
Think of this as your puppy’s diaper bag. It should carry treats, bags, a chew item, and maybe a small camera for capturing those adorable moments. Choose a style that suits you!
Interactive Puzzle Toys:
Keep your puppy’s mind engaged with puzzle toys. They’re like brain games that challenge and entertain. You can even DIY some from household items. These toys are fantastic for mental stimulation and can be a fun part of mealtime.
Where to Shop:
Supporting local pet stores is a great way to find quality and unique puppy gear. We love places like George, SFRAW, Pawtrero, and Chewy.com. Got a favorite store? Let us know!
Food: What to Feed My Puppy?
Choosing the right food for your puppy can be a hot topic. Our advice? Go for fresh, less processed foods. Check out resources like Whole Dog Journal or Dr. Pitcairn's Guide for comprehensive guidance on puppy nutrition. Variety is key, and remember, high-quality ingredients matter more than brand names. For the most up to date information on Canine nutrition check out Canine Nutrition Food Feeding and Function.